Review of The Best Food Conference of the Year (Terroir VI)
Dana and I had the privilege of attending our third Terroir event a few weeks back; over the next 5-6 weeks we’ll be sharing a weekly column reviewing what we learned from this amazing symposium which “brings together the innovative and creative influencers of Canada’s hospitality industry including chefs, food writers, wine and food experts and business leaders.”
This years theme was “The New Radicals.” Many of today’s top chefs and restaurants are behaving in ways that are different from previous generations. Many are opening restaurants in abandoned sports bars with little-no budget (and no financing/ business partners), others are serving food from trucks, some are showcasing their skills in the form of television commercials and some are doing all of the above. Consider Toronto restaurant Parts & Labor which is a serious kitchen on the main floor (it converts to a dance club by midnight on the weekends) and a hardcore band venue in the basement. Business as usual is no longer so usual.
Like our previous years, Terroir started early in the morning for breakfast. Bleary-eyed members of the Hospitality community (it has transcended beyond an industry, at least in this room) pulled in to Arcadian Court for its inaugural event) and huddled over cups of coffee and pastries as if they were a campfire.
When Dana and I first entered this room two short years ago we were somewhat intimidated and unsure if we belonged. And while we found ourselves to be quite welcomed back then, the experience has become wholly different now with more hugs and warm greeting of friends, acquaintances and so many people who we respect adds to the buzz of the event. I attend a considerable number of conferences through my day job and have recently learned the power of these gatherings is often unleashed after multiple years of attending the same ones and meet more people through the room.
One of the exciting things about Terroir has been it’s ability to either influence or predict what is coming in regards to trends and developments in Toronto (and perhaps beyond but I can’t personally validate). I was speaking to a friend (who owns two bars/ restaurants and is also a designer of all things cocktails) about Terroir in advance of the event and mentioned that I had attended a great session on infusing and custom cocktails. She mentioned that this wasn’t so much as innovative as it is practically a must-have for many restaurants/ bars in our city in the last 12-18 months. When I shared that it was Terroir IV (2 years ago) that had presented this, we laughed. I don’t know if it was Terroir that influenced this (there were 300-500 of the cities chefs, mixoligists and hospitality professionals) or did it merely see it coming? I’m not sure it matters – it did see it coming before many did. And that, to me, is the joy of such an event.
The day covered a lot of topics and rapid-fire speeches/ presentations (I covered the full agenda in advance here). There was one breakout session though most of the sessions were held in the grand ballroom that our day started in.
The people that stood out to us (and that you’ll be hearing more about soon) included:
- Barton Seaver (Author, For Cod and Country)
- Doug McNish (Vegan/ Raw food chef and author)
- Lilia Smelkova (Food Day USA)
- Tama Matsuoka Wong (Forager and author)
- An amazing video (made for the event by Arlene Stein) which shared the vision of NOMA (which just won ‘Best Restaurant in the World for it’s third consecutive year)
- The team from Societe Originale (which I can’t even begin to explain without a full post)
Lunch featured a compiled effort made by 15 amazing Chef’s and was based on Chinese-Canadian Cuisine. It was an impeccable feast that’s only criticism from some was it’s pure decadence in a day which had significant talk about sustainability and restraint. I tossed this paradox back and forth before reconciling that this was an annual event that is meant to share what’s happening in food right now and experiencing it is more powerful than speaking about it. So, for right or wrong, I justified this on the basis of it being an educational event:

Every year at Terroir I come out with 1 observation. This years anecdote is about sustainability in the kitchen and defining the role of chef and restaurant in regards to influencing and creating change in kitchens and grocery stores around us. This conversation was often the ‘sidebar’ topic of recent years or reserved only for the most elite of restaurants. It’s no-longer a back-burner issue and it’s one that’s engaging considerable thought and conversation. Not all agree on the answers but many are exciting to engage in the conversation around sustainable change and this subject will thankfully continue to be a pressing issue for the foreseeable future.
I also find myself leaving with insight into my own cooking and something to work on for the year (in year one I knew I had to focus on balancing salt and acid while in year two it was all about uncovering umami). This years lesson? Despite eating seasonally and mostly local, I have a whole lot more work and research to do about the taste of ‘here’ – indeed, this year has got to be a deeper exploration of my own terroir.
The day wrapped up with local wine, cheese and snacks and then an after-party at the Drake Hotel. It was an amazing day.
Stay tuned over the next few Friday’s to see what we learned from each of the speakers listed above – it was an amazing day!























