Today started with one of those phone calls.  You know the type – the ones that ring in the middle of the night and launch you into hyper awareness.  By noon I had driven almost 700 kilometers (about 400 miles) and I’m now back home.  For now I’ll leave the reason as personal but let’s assume it’s been a tough day.

There was a time in my life that I couldn’t find a silver lining.  I’m now guilty of chronically looking for it.  One of the benefits of a late night- early morning drive into Northern Ontario is that you get to see spectacular sunrises like this one:

That picture was taken early this morning on a surprise trip to our hunting cabin.  I wasn’t there very long but I did have a chance to see these:

Our garlic is starting to peek through the soil and reach for the sun!

I would have normally thought that this was neat or cool or exciting.  Today I found it remarkably comforting.  To see food grow and to be part of the process is a vivid reminder of how connected we are to the planet, that sunrise and each other.  And, some days, that feeling is all you need to take the next step.

Sorry to be vague; but the point here isn’t my rough day – but rather the comfort that’s brought by being connected to something that’s growing and new.

Being passionate about something generally mandates continuous learning.  It’s pretty difficult to be passionate about something and NOT learn about it.  Despite being somewhat dyslexic, my career (outside of food) has revolved around education and training for most of my life.  It would be very fair to say that I am passionate about learning, food and learning about food.

In 20 years as a trainer of one form or another, I’ve learned that questions are the accelerator of learning.  Finding the right question can quickly expand your world and bring new information and delights that you couldn’t have imagined otherwise.  I’ve also learned that asking the wrong  question can have the opposite effect – it can shut down the person you’re asking and prevent the acquisition of such information.  Pursuing the right question (and how to approach it) can rapidly expand your experiences with food.

It was in such spirit that, a few months back, I shared the most important question to ask a real butcher.  I was particularly thrilled to learn that some people have started to ask the same thing and that their world of food is expanding.

As much as I enjoy diners and independent restaurants, I often find myself falling victim to plate envy.  I used to order what I thought sounded good and, while it’s often great, it never seems to fail that a regular patron walks in and orders something that has my enthusiasm crushed in an instant.  This is even more problematic when travelling as there’s rarely a chance for a do-over.

I graduated to asking people what they recommended and, while it sometimes helped, there were often problems in smaller restaurants:

• I would get a generic “everything’s great”
• I would be walked through the things most people eat if they were good or not.
• I would be guided to the highest profit margin or special of the day.

But the biggest problem was far more sensitive: people felt pressured by the question and they would recoil into an awkward response either concerned that you wouldn’t like it or that they didn’t feel right reccomending for you.  This happened more often than I would beleive.

I’ve found that a slight modification to the original question has dramatically increased my results:

• “What’s your favorite thing here?”

The question is far softer and less intimidating.  After all, I’m not asking them if I’ll like it or even for them to recommend it.  I generally receive a passionate, excited answer and suffer far less plate envy.

That’s how I ended up with a crawfish etouffe omelette at Mothers in New Orleans today.  I didn’t want an omelette, didn’t know what etouffe was and expected to be saddled with pulling shells apart to eat it.  My breakfast arrived and I was a little unsettled – it wasn’t exactly a work of art.

I knew, after a single bite, that I was in bliss.  It was simply awesome; a special thanks to the young lady who lit up when she told me about how much she loved this dish.  I share her appreciation for it!

How do you avoid plate envy?

The sky is dull grey and dank; it kind of feels like a dubious looming candle that melts from the apex of the moon and into the asphalt on the ground.  You get the picture: it’s dull.  Drab.  Droopy.  Not delightful.

But I’m excited to be heading into the murky streets of Toronto this morning.  We’ll be crossing the city in a vibrant red streetcar (or my neon black truck) to meet friends for brunch.  Friends Dana’s had for most of her adult life and friends I’ve now shared for many years.  A group of ‘ladies’ that we used to meet monthly for the same meal (as in brunch not as in the same ingredients) in what was once an all-girl brunch club (I ruined the gender ratio).  They will be our pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

I’m generally not a big breakfast person.  I have a special place in my heart for pancakes and French Toast but find the truly homemade version is generally far superior to what one gets in many restaurants.  But I can easily pass on most of the meals other offerings; I’d far rather trade a hamburger for a fried egg or a plate of spaghetti for a pile of hash.  I know that many people love the concept of breakfast for dinner – I’m just wired the other way.

This morning is a return to chicken and waffles.  Yes, I am that excited.

But brunch has become about more than the meal.  It’s a small tradition that connects this small group of friends out of the context of our ‘normal’ friend ship with each other.  Brunch is a pattern interrupt and seeing them for this meal always feels different from our other encounters. Brunch is the cozy couch that’s wrapped in a warm blanket of our friendship.

I don’t know when it crossed the line from going for a meal to becoming a tradition, but it did.  Memories from across the city of shared breakfast and bleary eyes as we slowly become fully conscious of the world around us (aided a great deal by never-ending cups of coffee).  And food that is seasoned with tradition always tastes better than the alternative to me.

What are the small food traditions you value the most in your life?

The Holidays are fast approaching and I’m very excited.  This is my favorite time of year – lots of chance to spend quality time with those I love while generally sharing wonderful meals and libations.  I’m a sucker for the Holidays.

Christmas is a big holiday around these parts for us.  The biggest tradition is the gathering of Family and several days of living in tighter-than-normal confinement; the magic of the Holidays makes this not only tolerable but desirable and wonderful.  Our Family is so awesome and accommodating and don’t seem to mind sleeping anywhere needed (including on air mattresses which magically deflate while sleeping in the kitchen overlooking one of the busiest streets in Canada).

We are fortunate to have a few food traditions.  Some of them are more flexible than others, here’s a partial list and the length of time we’ve had the tradition:

• Turkey is the main meal Christmas day.  I know a lot of Americans opt for ham as US Thanksgiving is relatively close to Christmas but ours is in early October.  We have bought a small-farm bird that was organic and free-run and are excited to be picking it up on the 23rd.  I’ve decided to brine the turkey this year – a departure from previous years (my Father is a fabulous cook who has never served a dry bird in his life).  This has been a tradition for generations and it a must.
• Brussels Sprouts – served with butter and white vinegar (sometimes whole, sometimes shredded and cooked with bacon).  This is a tradition from Dana’s family and is also a long-standing must-have from her family.
• Moose pie for Christmas morning.  A blend of my Father’s traditional hunting with my Mothers Acadian roots.  Meat pie is steamed to reheat – recent years have had only a top layer of a thick dough-like crust.  It’s served with the family made mustard pickles and starts the day like my Mothers family has for many years.
• The Christmas cheese platter.  Something I started when we had our first Dana and Joel combined family Christmas 6 years ago.  Cheese is taken out of the fridge early on Christmas morning and left to come to room temperature before serving.  It generally includes some seasonal selections that are specific to this time of year.
• Christmas Eve Lobster.  This is a traditional Acadian Christmas Eve dinner that we haven’t had for a number of years but plan on bringing back this year.  Christmas Eve is generally an evening of celebration that lasts long into the early morning (so long that the last one to bed sometimes put the turkey in the oven before going to bed).
• Stuffing – made inside the turkey.  I know more people are getting away from it but I can’t see ever-changing.
• Craft Beer from across the Province – this started only in the last year or two but I’m really enjoying having a wide-range of craft beers to sample (generally for the first time) through the lazy hours of the Christmas Holidays.
• New Years Eve feast.  We have wonderful friends over for a fantastic meal and celebration of the year that was – and the one that will be.  Last year was a 12-course marathon.

Regardless of which Holidays you celebrate, what are the traditional foods you can’t live without?

Dana’s parents have been visiting this weekend – I love having them around and enjoy our house when there’s a few extra people in it.  It just feels like there’s a special occasion to me.

Food is the third most enjoyable thing in my life.  Friends and family are number two.  Friends and family with food are number one.  Simply put, if I have to choose between friends and family or food, I’ll pick the people whom I adore.  But I am fortunate to have the ability to be greedy and have both and thus I choose the combo!

I’m also a giant fan of cooking.  I adore prepping in the kitchen.  The quiet process and repetition of technique as well as seeing my progress grow in the kitchen are giant motivators.  Observing people I love enjoying the fruits of such labour is  payoff like none other that I know.  The food doesn’t have to be overly complex but there is an absolute joy in seeing people enjoy good food done well.  This feeling is magnified as we get to know the producers of our food and I know the people who worked hard and honestly to provide me ingredients which I try to raise to their heights of my highest capable yumminess.

Yes, ‘highest capable yumminess’ is both a real word and scientifically measurable in my world.

Dana also enjoys the foods from our kitchen in similar but different ways.  She has an appreciation (and, indeed, passion) for really simple food in addition to that which takes a lot of work.  A bowl of beans, chickpeas or fruit is more than enough to make her very happy.  I adore this about her but I’m still learning that restraint can lead to amazing results.

It’s not an intellectual battle (I understand that a great ingredient can be great if left alone) but I’m a classic boy in that regard – sometimes my neanderthal brain kicks in and demands that ‘bigger is better.’  I think this is what happened when I first tried to impress her with my culinary ‘skills’ about 7 years ago and cooked a pasta sauce with (my parents preserved) tomato sauce and 18 other ingredients, including an entire bulb of garlic.  I made enough to feed the two of us every meal for 3 days.  And for her to take to work for a week.  Thankfully, I’ve learned a lot about restraint and portions (although it’s a work in progress).

For the last two mornings, we’ve sat around the high table in our kitchen and chomped on toast, yogurt, muffins and local fruit.Multiple jars of preserves sat near the butter and toaster which pumped out hot bread like an assembly line churning out the latest fad of today that will become the landfill of tomorrow.

Our mini breakfast buffet has been delightful.  A gentle rhythm as individual waited for the toaster to pop, drowsy conversation that slowly picks up with consciousness and coffee and the smells and tastes that wake the kitchen.  A simple, no-work (if you don’t count the toil of previous days including making the preserves and homemade bread and muffins) meal that delighted the senses.

Maybe, just maybe, I’m learning to appreciate breakfast and the traditions that come with a simple meal…

I turned 38 yesterday.

It was a great day – I`ve long given up being upset at another year and enjoy the day.  It was a fantastic day.

Dana surprised me by bringing me to one of the oldest Steak Houses in Toronto – called the Tom Jones (not after the singer).  Neither of us had ever been although both of us were very, very curious.  I rarely order a steak in a restaurant and, though I enjoy it, it`s a rare treat even at home.  The truth is that we`ve been eating less meat over the last 5 years and the meat we eat is often an ingredient in a dish (such as a stir fry) rather than as a feature on a plate.

The Tom Jones is one of the older Steak Houses in Toronto – it`s an awkward building which stands, for no reason, isolated in the middle of a parking lot between two roads.  It offers promise of a piano bar, fondue after 10PM and traditional black tie service.  It also has no windows and is almost shrouded in mystery:

The Tom Jones was too dark on the inside to get a decent picture – but it is an amazingly crazy space filled with wood, intimate booths, circular walls and more.  From the Waiters in Tuxedos through to he bread basket and menu, the restaurant was like a time machine back to the 1970s.

Rather than sharing all the details of our great dinner (I like to keep some stories to share in person ), I`d like to post about a funny realization I had  last night.

We ate:

• Garlic Bread
• Escargot
• Caesar Salad – made table-side
• Steak
• Cherries Jubilee – also made table-side

I`ve had this meal many times in my life – even though I`ve only been in 1 or 2 steak houses.  This menu was made many times by my parents hosting dinner parties when I grew up.  I remember being invited to the `adult table` from a very young age when I had the chance to partake in the full meal and conversation.

I had no idea they were emulating the steakhouses of the time.

The entire meal was an awesome, fascinating experience.  It made me think of the great meals they shared (I remember them going to a steak house only once) and how the portions of meat have drastically reduced since those days.  It made me think of the cycles of food and how certain trends evolve over time.

It also made me think – what is the food that represents the time we live in now.  In Toronto recent years have seen:

• Casual fine dining
• House-cured charcuterie
• House-made bread
• Local cuisine
• Farmer and winemaker dinners
• Gourmet Pizza
• Gourmet Poutine
• Italian and family-style dining
• Preserves in fine-dining

Things that seem to be picking up momentum:

• House-made cheese
• More Italian cuisine
• Continued evolution and return to classic cocktails done right
• Sustainable fish and seafood

What trends in food are you seeing where you are?  What trends do you miss?  Which are you glad have gone away?

I have a lot of English in my blood: my Mum and her family came to Canada on boats when she was 13 – except aunt Marg, she got to fly! but that’s another story – and my grandparents on my Dad’s side were both English…so along with a love of football (or soccer if you prefer), I’m adept at providing ‘translation’ for Joel when he wants to make a Jamie Oliver dish (aubergine?), I think Monty Python and Little Britain are HILARIOUS (Joel leaves the room)…. and I have a small obsession with the Royals.  I have a good memory of being dragged out of bed when I was 8 to watch Diana (who was only 12 years my senior!) marry Prince Charles with her awesome hair and that big cream puff of a dress.

So…If you’re going to haul your arse out of bed for 3am (Toronto time) like I am….to watch all the pomp n’ circumstance of this Friday’s Royal Nuptials plus all of the ensuing news coverage you’re going to need some provisions. Call it ‘breakfast’ or a ‘late night’ snack who cares!  This is the “Wedding of the Century” and I’m here to help. The photo above shows my carefully curated spread for the occasion (minus a bottle of champagne!)….it’s not organic and it’s sure as heck not local…

1. Chocolate is essential! None of that dark chocolate…it’s got to be “milk chocolate”….
• Cadbury Flake “the crubliest flakiest milk chocolate”
• Nestlé’s original Yorkie…it’s “not for girls” because it’s marketing strategy circa the late 70s was to make a chocolate bar for men.  I rebel against 1970s marketing strategy!
• York Peppermint Patties are actually from York Pensilvania…oops…but they’re yummy anyway

2. Candy!

• Walkers’ nonsuch Treacle Toffee – just ‘whack unwrap and enjoy” (your emergency trip to the dentist), or switch the words around a bit and…Honeymoon! (okay, the mum’s might be reading this…sorry)
• Polo Mints – Britain’s best selling mint! Don’t eat too many, I wont be held responsible.

3. Tea and Biscuits

• Red Rose Orange Pecoe…was my grandmother’s favourite (both of them I think) – it’s actually a Canadian brand, but we’re part of the common wealth so it counts (I say so…and my english grannies would too). They had a commercial where the tagline was “Only in Canada you say?….pity.” (If you’re about my age and Canadian you might remember it)…I also used to pinch the little Wade ceramic figurines from the box when it was first opened if I had a chance.

• Social Tea biscuits…for dunkin’ in the Red Rose….good and soggy.

4. Breakfast

• Crumpets…really, Tea and Crumpets…it’s a given. (I might be able to find some homemade jam to slather on there I think).

• Gin and Dubonnet…the Queen Mum’s favourite cocktail I hear, she was a ‘legendary drinker’ and quite the Lady…

A fitting spread for the big day, laid out on my best (tarnished) silver platter (Value Village 5 bucks!), complete with a rusty ol’ lucky horse shoe for the Bride and Groom (snagged 3 of them at my new favourite store Chief Salvage, Cody is awesome) and an ‘official’ Royal Wedding Collector mug for my ‘tea’. I’ll raise that mug for Rose & Jim, and Myrtle…who might have watched it with me if they were here…and of course Diana and the Queen Mum who would have liked to have been there I’m sure.

We`re visitng my parents today – we had planned to be back in the city this morning but a bout of post-vacation colds has us lying low and enjoying an impromptu Easter feast with my folks, my Aunt from New Brunswick and her daughter (who now lives in Shanghai).

As I was thinking of writing a quick post to the virtue of family and the warmth of dinners surrounded by those you love, a funny food memory struck me from my youth (I was so young that my memory of this story is based on years of hearing the story re-told).

I am an only child and started life in a small apartment in the (then) rural community of Markham.  We were in the only `high-rise` back then (a lumbering building of about 8 stories which was hidden at the bottom of a valley and still stays hidden alongside a small adjunct of the Don River system.

My Father was a Fire Fighter and my Mother was a Nurse.  Dad was working shift work as Mom helped out his brother and was babysitting her youngest niece (on his side of the family).  As she lifted a rather oversized-pot onto the stove, my young cousin asked what was for dinner.

Before addressing the reply I should take a moment to share that my Mother is one of the most-caring, sweet and non-intimidating people that walk this earth.  She is the consummate nurse which is one of the nicest compliments I know to bestow upon anyone.

My young cousin must have initially welled with confusion as my Mother answered her innocent question with a one-word reply that was followed by laughter:

`You!`

Said cousin was later found hiding and sniffling in the dining room.  It`s a story I`ve shared laughter with her over many times since.

I`m fortunate to have many great memories of family and food.  I often half-joke that family and friends are my number 2 passion.  Food is number 3.  Family and Food combined is my clear numero uno passion.  It`s weekends like this that are my absolute favorite and most special times.  There`s not a fine-dining experience that I`d trade for these memories.

What are your favourite family and food associations or memories?

It`s a Holiday Monday today.  For those from other parts (otherwise known as `not round here`), today is known as `Family Day`in Ontario.  A relatively new holiday bestowed upon us a few years back by the Government who decided it was time to have a Holiday in the middle of winter.  I have to admit that it`s a pleasant luxury.

We visited my parents last night and stayed in my childhood home (the second of two that I remember).  We had a lovely evening, enjoyed an awesome roast and family evening together.  The Dog was in Puppy Heaven between visiting my folks and being treated to toys (which he destroyed), a new bone (which he destroyed) and a brief encounter with my Mother`s exercise ball (which he destroyed).  When you`re a puppy you learn that destruction = happiness.

The evening faded into a cozy night in the den.  The NBA All-Star game played in the background and we slowly drifted to sleep on the couch or the floor and it took a brave soul to raise forth and declare it was time for bed.  I was the last to make the trek up the stairs and off to bed.  Despite being the last to raise, I am quite certain I won the race to get under the covers and fall asleep.

I was also the last to get out of bed this morning.

My transition from sleep to the land of the wake was fast.  A cold nose and gentle lick were my greeting to the morning.  As soon as Shaeffer realized I was awake he ran back out of the room and off towards the kitchen.  It was as if he wanted to make sure I didn`t miss anything – but not at the expense of he himself missing it.

I laid in bed and my senses slowly became aware.  The sound of the sizzle of sausage was preceded only by the smell of egg and bread as French Toast deliberately toasted in a pan of butter and oil.  The bass-like note of coffee started to wake parts of my brain that I didn`t know existed only moments before.

I rose to stretch and noticed the fresh dusting of snow that covered the world outside the window.  It wasn`t the heavy stuff – more like the flour that falls off your cutting board when dusting an uncooked loaf of bread.

All of this was followed by a family style breakfast.  Maple Syrup, sausages, the toast and the comfort of people you love.

The smells, sound and taste of food so often transcend simple nourishment.  Today, like so many days, I feel so lucky.

What are the sounds, smells and tastes of your kitchen that denote family and friends?

For those viewing this through readers or on our home page, we`ve switched to our new format (perviously announced) which only prints the first part of the article and allows you to click to view more.  We believe this will make finding the content you want easier for you and not hog your reading space.  We`ll repeat this announcement for about a week as a public service announcement.

When we shared our ideas or (Unconventional) Dinner Party Menus earlier in the week I held back our idea for this year.  I am a big fan of surprising guests with a menu as part of the experience.  And I hadn`t worked out all of the kinks.

Despite it being 2011, the number that represents New Years to me is 12.  12 months, 12 midnight, 12 courses.  Last night`s dinner took more than 7 hours to eat as we slowly feasted our way through 12 small courses.  Each was served on a small plate.  Serving was very informal – the 8 of us huddled around a table that would be a squeeze for 6 and we traded wine, stories and flavors through the night.

Several of the courses were connected specifically to our guests – dishes they had wanted to try, tributes to food memories we had together and the like.  I really enjoyed that aspect and, had I thought about it earlier enough, I would have designed a menu that had a small tribute to each guest at the table.  An idea for another evening…

To serve 12 courses and still enjoy the company of others, there`s a few tricks.  Most of the day was spent prepping dishes – searing meat, pre-roasting veggies, making soup, baking bread, chopping veggies, blanching greens, slow roasting short ribs and general sous-chef duties.  In addition to the prepped kitchen we also had a bunch of other veggies, fruit and sides.

Small plates and a relaxed schedule also help.  This could not have been completed much faster than we did it without dedicating to yourself to cooking only (i.e. not enjoying your guests and the rest of the party).

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