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What do you eat in March?

March 1.  We’re officially in the heart of winter.  We’ve been eating soup, stews, potatoes and hearty meals for months and there’s no end in sight.

What dishes do you turn to in the middle of winter when you want something local and lovely?

My favorites include preserved fruit, our homemade tomato sauce (as pasta or soup) and our dried goods put over from summer.  I get oddly excited about our recent fermentations and keep planning (without success) to make cabbageroles and perogies.

Learning to Eat What`s Available…

One of the counter-intuitive things about a project like Well Preserved is that our pattern of posting 7 days a week means that we miss sharing major themes of the lessons we`re learning about food.  By posting about the macro lessons of our kitchen it`s like we post about the trees while sometimes forgetting to share an update about the forest.  This is particularly problematic as we`re more passionate about the metaphorical forest than the individual greenery within it so it`s good to remember to take a step back from time to time.

A few weeks back, Dana ran into something (it may have been a passage from Mark Bittman or Joel Salatin) that explained that eating locally meant making a shift from eating what was available instead of what you wanted.  Although the sentiment was pure common sense, it was also a pretty big moment for us; it`s amazing how the words of others can help cement feelings into fact.

And those facts help informing your kitchen.

I`ve found myself reflecting on that statement a lot in recent weeks.  I wish one could plan the timing of such moments but when inspiration hits, you`ve got two options: answer to the bell or try to ignore her.  I`ve tried to embrace the challenge and can feel how our kitchen is changing just by purposefully searching for the items that I have on hand rather than defaulting to recipes, tricks or ingredients I may know.

This particular influence is easier to pursue because of our pantry full of preserves.  Consider today`s brunch:

  • It started with a baguette.  We get a baguette every 2-3 weeks as part of our community shared agriculture program (though this one was bought en route to picking up our CSA today).
  • Laid on top of the bread (not visible) is a sweet-potato humus that came from our CSA basket last week.
  • On top of that are onions (again, from the CSA) which were caramelized with cider vinegar, maple syrup (from a friend`s tree), hot peppers (that we dehydrated), salted herbs (we preserved) and tossed with cheese that we also received as part of our CSA.

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  • The sandwich was then topped with two fried eggs from a local small farm (again part of our CSA)
  • and then topped with pickled hot peppers from our pantry.

I would have never mixed all of these things together before – but the focus on using what we have vs. what we want is creating new and delicious combinations in our kitchen that we would have missed before.  And it`s got me that much more excited about exploring what happens when the first thought isn`t `what else do I need?`

What great things do you assemble with the things you have?

Heading to Farm Country for a Road Trip.. with No Plan

We`re going to pick up a rental car shortly and then we`re taking off to farm country.  We haven`t decided which region of the province we`ll visit and there`s farms North, East and West.  If we go far enough West, there`s a bunch of farms South as well.

I love the feeling before taking off in an unplanned direction.  In the early 1990s I was fortunate to take a year off and spend much of that time on a Greyhound Bus.  In a single year I travelled 27,713 kilometers on the bus system with no watch or calendar.  I brought a map to track my distance – but not to look ahead.  It was a time of very much living in the now.

Today I`m excited to disappear into the country and simply see our province.  I am most excited to simply see the fields and to explore the effects of our initially wet summer that`s become relatively hot.

We`re also bringing an empty cooler.  perhaps we`ll fill it, perhaps it will stay empty.  But the potential of filling it is as exciting as the act itself.

Enjoy the wonderful day all – it`s time to explore our foodshed and I`m bouncing off the walls!

Ideas to Describe Foods That Aren`t Local – But Want to Be

As a bit of background – in Canada we have a lot of food labelled as `Product of Canada.`  The legislation is often criticized for confusing the origins of food – i.e food grown on the other side of the world and then shipped here can be labelled `Product of Canada` if the packaging costs more than the actual food.  Other food grown here and shipped to the Southern US or Russia to be produced comes back as this same label.  We also confuse wine purchasers with terms like `cellared in Canada.`  It`s a frequent topic amongst many I know…

I spent a few minutes with a friend today who I find ever-inspiring.  She recently spent hours going through a pile of produce trying to figure out where it`s from. She quoted some of the terms on the packaging that would be so funny if they weren`t actually really on foreign food trying to appear to be more local.

There`s a lot of attention to locally-grown food these days and many people are interested in being included in those conversations.  Perhaps this is why some labeling is confusing.

I thought I`d provide some tongue-in-cheek ideas to help companies who want to make their far-away food seem more local – the comments in the parenthesis are the fine print:

  • Grown locally (somewhere else)
  • Grown with Love in Canada (only the love part has to be Canadian, technically)
  • Contains Canadian Water (that evaporated and fell somewhere else)
  • Grown on Canadian Soil (why not just ship some of our soil somewhere else and farm with it)
  • 100% Canadian Seeds made these veggies
  • Inspired by Canada
  • Mae while thinking of Canada
  • pollinated by Canadian Bees
  • Made in Cda. (Just rename a town somewhere else)
  • Made While Thinking of Canada
  • Made on (a map of) Canada
  • Made Near Canada
  • Canadian Bacon (Made somewhere else)

I understand that the truth is that most of our mass-produced food simply can`t tell us where it`s from because of their scale (that`s scary enough) – but I just wish my food would tell me where it was from and then I could make my own decision from there…

Happy Saturday to all!

The Wonderful Taste of Summer.. Another Reason Why We Eat Seasonally

I stopped by the pub on my home from work.  I was there to pick up our weekly delivery of farm-fresh food and the second delivery of the year from our CSA.  I stopped short of the temptation to grab a pint and enjoy the first day of summer on the patio.

I had started eating my bag of food before I got back to my truck (a mere 30 feet away).  I couldn`t wait to get home and share the bounty – and kept grazing on my way there.

I burst through the door like I had won some form of championship.  I gave Dana one guess to try to figure out what was behind my back (for the record, she guessed onions) before holding my trophy above my head – the first fresh strawberries we`ve had in almost a year.

The concept of eating seasonally and avoiding imported strawberries through the winter is something relatively new to us.  I don`t know exactly when we started it (about 4 or 5 years) and we don`t live 100% to it but it seems that more and more of our food is becoming seasonal.

I also understand this isn`t a lifestyle for everyone and that there are also plenty of people who live this way naturally.  I just want to share our excitement for doing so – though it`s difficult to explain something that comes down to experience.

There`s something magical about eating something you haven`t had in a long time; especially when it`s uncomprimisingly fresh and ripe and full of flavor.  Imported strawberries barely resemble the flavor, texture and even color of their imported cousins.

Dana and I had a bit of a strawberry party last night – we absolutely geeked out gorging on flavors that were barely memories before last night.  It`s remarkably silly but so rewarding and exciting.

Seasonal eating also forces me to use new ingredients, learn new recipes and techniques that I didn`t otherwise know.  It adds a slight challenge – one that can easily be overcome with a recipe book or Google.  It can also be just as economical as buying from a large grocery store (though there`s a whole series of posts in their own right there).

I`m not sure I can quite describe it but I really recommend trying to abstain on one food (berries are great for this as is asparagus) and avoid it when you can`t get it locally and fresh – and enjoy the excitement of it`s return when you see it next year.  The reward is so much richer than anything I can find words to describe.

My Biggest Argument for Local food is Not Logical…

It`s emotional.

I really considered hitting `POST`there (the temptation to beat our shortest post ever was tough to resist) .  I`m not sure I can add a lot to the statement above but allow me a chance to try.

I sat in a restaurant last night in my hotel.  Some of the menu options:

  • Maryland Crabcakes
  • Quesadilla
  • Thai Chicken
  • Crispy Tortillas
  • Buffalo wings
  • Cobb Salad
  • Fettucini

Spelling mistakes are as they appeared.

See, I am in Scotland.  It took me 36 hours to get to my hotel – almost a full day of travel followed by a full day of work and then an exhausted bite in the cafeteria.  My tired body and mind simply wanted something I couldn`t normally get.  Find me a killer steak pie, haggis, local bangers or a winter stew.  I craved a small reward for the return on investment of the journey I had lived in the previous day-and-a-half.  Some sign that my travel was worth it – and a sign that I had actually travelled somewhere else.

I am probably more obsessed with the concept of Terroir (that food has a `somewhereness`) and seasonality (which is linked to the ‘where’ and ‘when’ of what we eat) as I am with being strictly local in my ingredients.  I’m not trying to be a snob about it, not claiming that you should care like I do nor am I saying it’s somehow better.  I am saying that, for me, it’s critically important.

I had the pleasure of meeting Chef David Kinch (Manresa, California) last year.  He, along with many local chefs, have me yearning for a taste of ‘here’ wherever I am.  Just as I enjoy the focussed attention of the people I am with (and give the same in return), connecting with the food of an area is a focussed gift of insight into a region, its people and their lives.

Kinch further challenged me this year when I heard him speak at Terroir V.  “I am not about local for the sake of being local – I am about getting the best flavors possible on the plate” (this is paraphrased).  He only serves food raised by his restaurant and farm.

Perhaps Manresa is a tough example – it’s an extreme example that very few of us could achieve (due to cost, climate, time and our own focus) but it’s no more extreme to me than the concept of some of the food above, especially when served in a Hotel (a destination with a high percentage of travellers of course).  I also find it inspiring.

Here’s a fantastic video of Kinch and a project they were pitching this winter:

Spring is coming – and with her warmth she will also bring a bounty of tastes from ‘here’ – wherever that may be.  What flavors are you excited to return to?


How to Choose the Right Winter-CSA for you…

With our winter community-shared agriculture program starting up today (more on that in the next few days), we thought we’d add to the tips we shared in the summer on how to pick a CSA that works for you in the winter.  We’re going to resist repeating tips from June but they very much apply so I’d recommend checking those out if you’re interested in this post.  Some are similar but more specific to winter.

We’re also going to skip some of the fundamentals – i.e. knowing the growing practices used – and share criteria specific to a CSA and not necessarily how the food is produced or where it is from.

  • Location of the pickup.  This becomes even more critical in winter – travel times can be increased and getting around can be more difficult.  A single missed pickup drives the costs of your CSA up (especially for us since our pickup is every second week).
  • Meat and dairy.  Does your CSA include these things?  Do you eat them?  Meat and Dairy store well through the winter and some CSAs can be “beefier” that others – this can present a challenge to vegetarians.
  • How is the food stored in the winter.  Food that has been cellared well, keeps well.  Frozen food is still frozen food.
  • Access to grain and beans.  More and more CSAs are offering flour, whole grains, cornmeal, dried beans and more.  These additions provide great staples and diversify your pickup.
  • Getting food home.  Related to location but more specific to food from winter.  Squash, potato, cabbage and other root vegetables may store well – they may also weigh a tonne.  Carrying fresh greens home in late spring is easy – 35 pounds of root vegetables might not be so easy.
  • Variety of food.  The prospect of 30 pounds of squash actually excites me in December/ January.  Receiving that weekly would scare me.
  • Greenhouse availability.  Does your CSA grow anything in the late winter/ early spring that will add variety to your meals?  Our winter CSA runs through May – not a time I’ll want more parsnips.
  • Your personal storage capability.  If you have to store the bulkier foods of winter on the empty side of your bed, you may want to consider a lighter program.  And that’s a piece of advice from a house which stores almost all of their pots in the stove and piles the kitchen table high to cook dinner.
  • Variety of food offered – often related to the size or number of farms involved in your program.  The options are fewer than summertime so ensuring that you have variety will be a key to satisfaction for many of us.
  • Focus of the farm.  Was the Winter CSA an afterthought (in which case your selection may still be great) or was food intentionally grown for winter market (which would hopefully increase the quality and selection).

You don`t need answers to all of these and there`s not a single set of right answers.  I`m hoping they`re a good starting point – would love any other considerations or tips shared in the comments.  In the meantime I had better find some bags to pick up our share tonight!

Re-Imagining the 100-Mile Diet (Part 8); A Star-Crossed Conclusion

For what it’s worth, we’re going to drive a conclusion to this series today…at least for now.

It’s taken me 8 days to figure out what’s been bothering me about a fundamental assumption of the circle that comes with our 100-mile circle.  It hit me like a shovel today.

The difficulty I have with the circle is that you are rewarded with more options the further you get away from where you started.  50% of the area is covered in the final 25% of the distance.  I agree the distance is an arbitrary symbol – but the shape remains difficult for me to accept.

This is going to take a few maps before I draw a conclusion – but I’m pretty excited to share my thought process from this afternoon.

I started by changing the circle to a star.  I liked the star because as you get further away, the less options you have.  I started with the assumption that we would keep the same geographic area as a starting point (31,416 square miles).  I broke it into 12 equalateral triangles – each one has 3 sides of 78 miles per side (this creates a height of 68.5 miles).  We lose some of the pieces of the circle and the longest point from home (there are 6) is 137 miles from the core:

Some of the distance is much further than the original 100 miles but I’m willing to bet that once we cross a certain distance, longer becomes our friend; it makes the densest population of food closest to us and allows us to be very select on things we decide are worth the distance.  For me, that would include hunting in the North.

But this is just the start…

Read more

Re-Imagining the 100-Mile Diet (Part 7) – All about limits, City Limits

I wanted to take another look at a map as we draw close to the end of this series.

I have heard people say that they measure local food as a distance from the border of their city – rather than just a circle from where they live.  I was more curious than anything as to the effect of this on our theoretical circle and what a difference this could make.

Toronto’s city core is 243 square miles (630 square kilometers).  The Greater metropolitan Area is approximately 2,751 square miles (7,125 square kilometers).  All numbers thanks to Wikipedia.

I know that neither area isn’t a perfect circle – to simplify my life I have created drawings that treat those two areas as perfect circles and then create new outer limits to our circle that is 100 miles from there.  Let’s start with a look before we break down the math:

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Re-Imagining the 100-Mile Diet (Part 6) – Wholesale Rule Changes

Since we`ve been playing with maps and math all week, perhaps it`s time to consider a few fundamental rule changes when attempting to define what is local to us.  It`s been fascinating to read and share ideas through the comments on how different our own interpretation of local can be.  Since we`ve been examining different versions of the map, perhaps we should challenge a few assumptions:

  • Knowing that much of our food comes from transport trucks; should we give bonus miles to food which travels on highways, especially on non-peak hours?  The fuel efficiency would be better than on back roads which are hard on fuel consumption and vehicle maintenance.  As Toronto is at the intersection of two major highways (one going East-West and the Other North), perhaps our shape should be closer to an inverted `T` to compensate for this distance.
  • While many of us adore Farmer`s markets, many of the markets have a rule that mandates no reselling.  This means that two neighboring farms would have to drive their own goods to market and not split the work (this does actively happen in Toronto).  Should their be penalties for these markets (of course there are advantages to no-reselling as well)
  • Should the area that is considered local change seasonally – especially for those in Winter Climes?  This would seem against the initial spirit of the idea but focussing a direction to harvest from could maintain less total distance of travel through the year (even when compared to a static 100-mile circle year-round).
  • Should larger batches of food be given greater leeway?  Mass consensus in the comments appears to say yes – that we are willing to go th distance to get food that we are more philosophically aligned with.
  • Should the storage requirements change the boundaries of local?  Items requiring he fridge certainly leave a bigger footprint than those that can be cellared.  Should we compensate by buying perishables from a closer distance?
  • Can we use one food to offset the distance of another – similar to carbon offsets?

Of course there are no real answers to the above – nor need to answer.  It is, however, interesting to consider the ramifications of some of this.  What have we missed?  What is ridiculous to consider?

To see all of the posts in this series, click here.  Be sure to check the comments out as well since many of them are blog posts in their own right – complete with maps, tools, resources and eloquent food for thought.

This is part 6 of a series of re-imagining the 100-mile diet – both by combining philosophical approaches and good old math and geography.  We’re taking the measurement very literally and reapplying it in several different ways – not because we think the measurement should be so literal, but to provide food for thought.  We really hope you’ll join the discussion that’s going on in the comments or on our facebook page.  Every comment between in either place between now and January 13th (5PM EST) will be considered a ballot to win a copy of Keeping Chicken’s with Ashley English.