An Outstanding Meal at Parts & Labour – and a Sustainable Seafood Dinner Next Week
There are very few rules about what I post here and all are self-imposed. For example:
- Dana and I decided from the start that we wouldn`t use this as a place to spew negativity for example and we`ve remained consistent with that one (it`s been difficult at times when we see some of the things we do within our industrial food system).
- We generally don`t post about the special or more romantic meals of our life. A boy has to keep some secrets after all and it`s important to me to still have some stories to share in `real life` or keep to ourselves.
- If we review a product that was given to us, we will let you know that this was a promo.
Rules are meant to be broken and today we`re going to bash rule 2. I won`t share all of the details but the fact is that some things are so good that you simply have to share them.
The Meal
Last night was probably the best restaurant meal I`ve ever had in Toronto at Parts & Labour. This is not a promo – we simply have to share the outstanding evening we had and want to support some outstanding people doing some outstanding things.
Dana, 2 friends and myself went out for dinner last night. The 4 of us have shared a lot of special meals together and we have a tonne of fun together. We`ve been lucky to have eaten our way across this city and through much of Chicago and New York over the last 5+ years.
Chef Matty Matheson and Sous Chef Matthew DeMille and I have been going back and forth on Twitter for a while. We had never met but we`ve shared a few messages back and forth. When I asked for restaurant recommendations late Friday night, Matthew said we should just come to their restaurant. After we confirmed, he offered us a seat in the kitchen (something I kept quiet from the other 3).
We walked into the restaurant around 9:00PM. We were taken through the packed restaurant (it`s 5,000 square feet) and sat at 1 of 3 high tables in the kitchen. Both gentlemen greeted us warmly and we tucked into the menu while watching the kitchen.
We started with cocktails and the drinks were crafted as opposed to assembled. The night was off to a good start.
The first dish to arrive was a terrine platter. There were 4 samples of house-made preserved, 3 or 4 terrines (also of the house) and a small canister of something. It was explained that this was potted lobster. Similar to potter shrimp my best description would be that this is lobster-butter on steroids. We all started with a liberal portion spread on toast and it changed the tone of the table.
Every single thing on that tray sung of fabulous and our conversation transformed to a mixture of sharing our delight and sharing guttural sounds of `mmm` or `arrrrrr.`
We moved on to a few more openers, including tongue. We were told that dining at P&L and not having the tongue was not acceptable and being a rules guy (cough), we complied. The dish transcended the ingredient and while I`ve enjoyed my share of tongue I can easily say I`ve never had anything like this before. Dana expressed it best when he surprised herself going back for a second and third taste; tongue is something she`ll typically try but not go back to the well for.
From there we went to mains. There was a cornish hen, rib eye steak, pork chop and plate of foie, sweet breads and wild boar belly. All were outstanding and we each tried something from all of the plates.
Beyond the food and beverage, there are a few outstanding things to note about P&L (from my perspective):
- The rooftop garden. It`s dormant now but the restaurant is an advocate of urban gardening (farming) and grow`s summer produce on top of the building (their website has a current picture of the garden)
- The atmosphere. The main room has communal tables. It`s loud and chaotic. People are singing birthday songs and generally having a party. The restaurant converts into a full bar and party once kitchen is closed. It`s not the spot for a quiet meal – but the atmosphere is not pretentious at all. It`s very charming.
- The staff. Service was exceptional, fun, friendly and professional.
- The kitchen. It`s an amazing setup and communication was calm and the amount of quality food that came out was outstanding.
- The hamburger. I simply have to go back to try it.
- There are a few vegetarian options and each looked great.
- The Chefs. Once the kitchen closed we got to spend some time around the table with each gentlemen and shared a (few) drinks. These are quality guys who are fantastic fun and are running an amazing kitchen. It`s people like this that I want to succeed – and the driving force on why we`ve broken rule 2.
The Coming Dinner
Sustainable seafood is an easy cause to support. A 7-course meal is an easy way to do it.
Next Monday night will see 6 of the best chefs in the city come together to prepare 7 courses of sustainable seafood – each paired with wine for $145. The event is being hosted at P&L:
There are limited seats remaining. Dana and I have spent our allowance so won`t be able to make this one but knowing the list of chefs above (and having eaten several of their offerings), this will be a stand-out event. Each is a passionate supporter of local, sustainable food and this will be an unbeleivable evening.
Comments
Wow! this sounds like an amazing experience. But sadly, I too will have to bow out this time. Please keep posting great events like this one.Cheers!
Wait, you were in my ‘hood and didn’t tell me??
I have only ventured into Parts and Labour once- it was late evening on a Sat and we decided to check it out for a drink. I have to say I was underwhelmed by the experience ( too young, too crowded and just generally not my vibe) We made a hasty retreat to more familiar digs ( aka Mezzrows). Now that you’ve given the food such a glowing review I will have to make an effort to return at a more civilized hour. The kitchen tables sound like fun too!
Sounds like a great time – could you elaborate a bit on what made the tongue so great?
absolutely…
They took 4 tongues and laid them on top of each other – alternating the tips so it made a fairly square `loaf`. this is put under a heavy weight to press it together and then braised long and slow (I beleive I have the order right). They then cut pieces off the loaf and pan sear it. It`s served in a gravy-like sauce that is closer to browning than gravy.
The tonge became almost a compination between pate, bacon and pulled pork. I know that`s an odd combination to describe. But it did not have the solid consistency of sliced tongue.
It essentially became much more meat-like and less tongue like (knowing that both are meat). It took tongue and turned it into an ingredient as oposed to it being the ingredient. I enjoy boiled tongue sandwhiches but find a lot of restaurants can`t elevate the ingredient past that. This took it an entirely different direction.
Don’t suppose there’s a chance you could wheedle a more detailed explanation out of them could you? Us far south of the border slim chance of getting there eaters would be interested in trying something like this!
When Joel says I ‘don’t go back for seconds’ on tongue, he really means I have trouble going for firsts…i’ve tried a lot of things and tongue is one i’ve always had trouble with. I know it’s mostly in my head -har har – (i don’t like tasting things that can taste me back?? beh!)…but the way the guys at P&L do it…was simply delicious. I had my obligatory bite and was happy to go back for more…that’s a first for me.
the potted lobster was awesome
and i’m still thinking about that cornish hen (and the roast vegetables..mmmm)
really was a great night…could have done without the whiskey though…having trouble keeping up with the boys lately
I’m with you on the tongue – I’m going to try my first, just to say I did but my desire to be a nose to tailer greatly exceeds my ability.
I’m thinking I definitely have to chop it up or change the texture somehow. The pressing, braising and pan searing it in smaller pieces just may be the answer. Thanks!
[...] form of television commercials and some are doing all of the above. Consider Toronto restaurant Parts & Labor which is a serious kitchen on the main floor (it converts to a dance club by midnight on the [...]