Your browser (Internet Explorer 7 or lower) is out of date. It has known security flaws and may not display all features of this and other websites. Learn how to update your browser.
Earlier in this series we mentioned that it`s not necessary to describe wine by comparing it to all sorts of other things (afterall, a cheeseburger tastes like a cheeseburger and not hints of summer rain) but many do and it can be fun.
There are thousands of different terms people use to describe wine (the taste, smell look and feel) – there are no firm rules here. Knowing a list of common terms may help you build your own vocabulary – here’s a starting point that you can be liberal by adding to (printing a list like this and scanning it when you taste a wine can also help you learn the terms and the contents of your glass faster). I have stayed away from terms that require a wine dictionary (Bernard Klem wrote one named WineSpeak which lists over 36,000 such terms – the digital copy can be purchased here):
acetic
apple
aroma
big
black current
burnt
balanced
bitter
bright
cat pee (couldn`t resist – slight amonia-type smell; not a bad thing)
cedar
cherry
clear
cloudy
corky
crisp
delicate
earthy
flat
flinty
fresh
gassy
hard
hot
light
mature
metallic
moldy
nutty
peppery
petrol (`diesel` used in North America on occasion to describe this faint smell)
pruney
rich
smoky
sulfury
sweet
tart
tobacco
vanilla
woody
yeasty
young
I`m hoping that the list above liberates some to use any term that comes to mind -with lists of more than 30,000 terms this is more about an art than a science. Describing a wine is not about getting the `right`answer – your perception is as accurate as the next taster.
Before discussing how to taste wine, let`s take a small step back and examine how we taste anything. Our tongue has many taste buds and different part of our tongue specialize in perceiving different tastes. It is believed we can only taste 4 separate things (a fifth is being proposed) and they are:
Sweet – the highest concentration is at the tip and front of tongue though there are some sensing spread right through the front three-quarters, though a few other zones are also here.
Salty – If sweet is the first 25%, salty is the second 25% of the tongue
Sour – runs the outside of te tongue (both sides) and is about half the length of the tongue; behind the sweet zone and in front of the bitter (the middle `half`with 25% of tongue in front and behind it)
Bitter – Back of the tongue running the entire width.
There are expanding theories that we also taste something called umami, which is essentially savory although it`s not entirely accepted by science yet.
The geography of everyone`s mouth is indeed different and the wine I adore may be one you hate – and we can both be right. Like the nose, you are also the expert of your own mouth and what you taste is, ultimately, what you taste. When tasting wine, we must consider the different taste ranges of the mouth as well as how to get the most flavor from the wine. A purist is very specific to the correct glass as it will affect where wine lands on the tongue and change how you perceive it`s flavor. Many of us don`t have the luxury of a glass for all seasons but buying a few different styles (you don`t have to break the bank) can be a nice luxury. There are at least 3 ways to taste wine other than firing a sip in your mouth and swallowing. If you haven`t done any of these, you must try all 3 as each will have a different experience (you can combine as well). I will do these through an entire glass (erm, or bottle) of wine:
Gently move the wine around your entire mouth, covering all regions of your tongue and created a more distributed taste.
Take a moderate sip and leave it coat your mouth for 3-5 seconds. The wine will warm, your mouth will be coated and your olfactory senses will become engaged and the tastes will become much more transparent.
My favourite (do this over a sink your first few times as the abundance of taste is so dramatic that it can be overwhelming). With a sip of wine in your mouth, part your lips a small bit (this won`t be noticeable to anyone watching). Gently breathe in and tilt your head forward (if you stopped breathing the wine would come out the tiny opening of your mouth). This quietly `gargles` the wine, adds a huge amount of oxygen to it and the flavors will explode in your mouth. There are very few things in life that are as fun as showing someone how to do this for the first time.
From there, concentrate on your flavors. The `real pros`examine things like sweetness, bitterness, amount of fruit (mostly from smell), aftertaste, acidity (in whites) and the tannins (in red, these make you pucker) and compare. You may wish to move on to these types of examinations as you progress through tastings but just seeing what it `tastes like` is plenty of fun and a fine place to be indeed. If you haven`t tried these techniques, I implore you to do so. The experience of drinking wine will be forever changed and, in my opinion, just so much more fun. Please share any experience or tips in the comments, we`d love to hear them!
There was a delightful urban legend that the Inuit people of the Northern Hemisphere had hundreds or thousands of words to describe snow. While the truth is that there are many flaws in this claim (including that there are several Inuit languages so the statement itself has a flawed assumption and that it`s recognized that the total amount roughly corresponds to the number we have in English), it is indeed a great analogy for why smell is so important.
Consider:
We are capable of perceiving up to 4 different tastes
We can smell around 2,000 different smells
90% of taste is actually rooted in smell
Smell is the most important part of tasting wine; and it is the one that is often neglected by many new to formal tasting. I believe from personal experience and many conversations that a lot of this stems from confidence – that we feel somehow unqualified to `properly`smell becuase we aren`t experts or `wine snobs`. Tasting wine, especially in public, can be intimidating for the uninitiated (I include myself in the number of people who can feel shy about tasting around others who `know more` than me).
We all have a nose; we just need to know a few things about how we can influence the wine so that we can use our olfactory sense to the maximum. There are 3 essentials here:
If you are consuming at home, buy a big glass. You don`t have to spend a fortune – many of our glasses are around $10 for 4. A big glass allows you to stick your entire nose deep within it to get a full smell (many do this at the same time when drinking to be more discreet but there`s no need to hide the most important step of your tasting.
Smell the wine, swirl it in the glass for 5-15 seconds and small again (nose all the way in, please). If you haven`t done this before, you won`t beleive the difference – and your ability to truly smell the wine. Swirling increases the oxygen and magnifies the smell to an unbeleivable level. I swirl a wine from the start of the pour through my last sip. If you`re concenred about spilling it, place your wine glass on a flat surface and make tiny circles with the glass and you`ll learn quickly. You can also practice with water and big glasses also help.
Smell multiple times – I try to smell 3 times before tasting it. Smelling multiple times will increase your perception and is part of savouring the wine – it`s not a race to the bottom of the glass (or to the first sip).
There is some contention on how to analyze the smells. Some wine schools pass out lists of hundreds or thousands of words while others insist that you should learn the smells of major varieties of wine or grapes using analogies like `a tomato smells like a tomato so learn what a pinot noir smells like.` Neither is wrong and adds further credence to the adage that your perception is, indeed, the `right` one. What you smell is, indeed, what you smell.
I had the pleasure of walking through a tasting with one of our favourite winemakers, Norm Hardie. Norm poured the room a glass of something white (a wine), and asked everyone to smell it. He asked the group what smells they took from his offering. He smiled a crooked smile before describing his own wine as smelling like `diesel.` I laughed and realized that it was indeed what I smelled – I didn`t think it because I was restricting myself to the palette of wine terms I knew like citrus and floral and the like.
Norm taught me that it is what it is, remove preconceptions from your mind and commit to what it is that you smell. You are, after all, the expert of your own nose.
If you want a formal list of wine terms, search Google or buy a wine book with a list – many have hundreds (or more) explored). We`ll share a review of such a book in coming days.
Would love to know of your experiences or any other tips below as well.
Tomorrow we move onto the taste and a few simple tricks that will transform the flavors in the glass to a different level!
Murphy’s Law. Heading out the door on my way to Boston and back for a 36 hour road trip and a half-hour post just got eaten by the Internet. It really was a stunner.
It’s almost a shame to begin to talk about the basics of tasting wine with the look. It’s not that it’s not important – it’s just that it can be so subtle and the toughest place to start. We’ll help you with that!
Before we begin though, let’s start with the Golden Rule of tasting:
Wine is what you perceive it to be. There are no true rights and wrongs and most of us will never know a more formal rule than this. Most experts are very open with this; at least the ones I choose to believe. This is about fun – be confident and enjoy!
For many years there was a perception that certain colors were ‘better’ than others – particularly in different types of grapes. This has been challenged in recent years as many wine regions and countries allow vintners (wine makers) to add color to their product without listing it on their label. This removes much of any argument that a ‘better’ color equals a ‘better’ taste.
Wine ranges in color for many natural reasons as well, including:
It’s age (typically older wines are darker)
The type of grape used
How it was aged (i.e. wine aged in oak is also often darker)
How much ice you put in it (this was a joke)
Typical colors of white wine range (from lightest to dark) as:
Pale (or Pale yellow-green)
Straw (Straw yellow is also used)
Yellow-Gold (light gold)
Gold
Old Gold (dark gold)
Yellow-Brown
Maderized (which is the result of oxidation typically used in a Spanish fortified wine named Maderia); not a term I’ve heard many say and you’re free to use your own description of course.
Brown
Red wine does not go from bright to dark – instead it goes from purple to bright red and then to dark, such as:
Purple
Ruby
Red
Dark Red (Brick Red)
Red-Brown
Brown
Most of us still can’t see the color though. Here’s a few tips that will make the color more apparent:
The more wine that’s in a glass, the darker it will look (think of the depths of the ocean). Pour a little at start to see its color and note the difference as you add more to a glass. A large glass also helps for this purpose (i.e. the wine will be further spread out and easier to see)
Tilt your glass to the side (this can be done very subtly). You will see a prism of color – from the outsides with little wine being lighter than the darkest core of the glass.
Hold your glass near a natural light source (be cautious of most indoor lights which are fairly yellow).
Imagine a chef serving a fine meal on a plaid plate.. The natural beauty of their plate would be obscured by the background. As most wine glasses are clear you run the risk of whatever is behind the glass having the same effect. Hold your glass in front of a white tablecloth or sheet of paper. My favourite trick is agreeing to wear white to a wine event with a partner so we can subtly do the same trick.
This last tip is ridiculous, probably not relevant and absolutely untested but it is something I am going to start to do because I want to (and I thought I’d share at the risk of being shamed ):
Keep a wine journal (not so ridiculous). “Paint” a swatch of your wine (this will mostly apply to reds) in the journal. Oxydization will change its color over time and it feels a bit like scrap booking but could be a fun exercise.
Those tips should help you better ‘see’ the color – but how do you learn one from another? My chosen profession specializes in educating adults – and this is where I can help out with some level of expertise.
As adults we learn the fastest by comparison and contrast. Learning colors one-at-a-time is a very difficult way to learn. It requires you to compare the look of a glass in front of you to the memory of one from the week before – a very difficult task indeed.
Here’s some homework that will absolutely increase your ability to recognize and learn about the colors of wine:
At your next dinner party or social occasion that you plan to open two bottles or more, set extra glasses aside. Save a bit of each bottle and pour it into a sample glass and keep the empty bottle and glass to the side. As you go through the night, repeat the process and compare the glasses. Use the cheat sheet above of different wine colors to draw your own conclusions.
Consider buying 2 or more small bottles so you can contrast even more samples (you will need a minimum of 2 bottles but don’t go past 5 or 6; two much comparison get’s very difficult to process and most of us can’t compare more than 5-7 things at a single time).
Buy multiple bottles from a single producer and compare their different types of wine. Sometimes you can find blends as well and buy 3 bottles – 1 of each grape on it’s own and then a bottle that is a blend of two (this will not be possible at all or even most vintners).
Buy multiple bottles of the same type of grape from a single region and compare the differences in color.
Buy multiple bottles of the same type of grape from multiple regions and compare the differences in color.
Many of us store leftover portions in our fridge – consider opening two bottles and storing 2 remainders (if you plan to consume in short order).
Go to tasting events where multiple glasses can be tasted at the same time – this is an essential experience at most vineyards.
My least favourite: buy an “expert” book, judge the wine for yourself BEFORE reading (you will be influenced if you do it after. This may help boost your confidence – or could erode it. It’s not evil, it’s just that your perception is as correct as theirs.
I hope some of these tips have been useful – would love to hear any from out there and would adore hearing if anyone tries these and has success (or struggle).
Come back tomorrow for a largely neglected element of tasting – the smell.
I am not a sommelier (heck I had to Google the spelling of it) nor am I any sort of wine expert. I have taken a few courses here and there and consumed a number of bottles but my overall experience is fairly pedestrian.
It’s often that I hear (and I remember saying), “I don’t know much about wine – I like it but I don’t do all that ‘fancy’ stuff people do to taste” or “I can’t taste all those things that people claim to.” In my experience, these two things are often connected.
Tasting wine can be intimidating when you start – I am hoping that sharing my relatively low expertise may remove some of the intimidation. My first experience with formal tasting was anything but glamorous. I was attending College for Travel and Tourism. The school offered wine tasting which sounded like a lot of fun and a good excuse to get drunk at school; or so my 19-year old mind rationalized. We paid our $15 to get tickets.
The school became concerned about drinking and driving. Our school was in the middle of the country and there was no public transportation back and forth (this didn’t seem to bother them on pub nights but wine appeared to be the drink of the devil). There was talk about cancelling the entire deal and a lot of scandal.
A peaceful accord was struck before the riots started; though it felt like a low blow for a teenager. “Tomorrow’s Wine tasting has been moved from 3:00PM to 6:30AM.” Early mornings are the ultimate weapon when battling youth – it’s like sun vs. a vampire; the same side will always win. There were no refunds as financial commitments had been made to the wine makers.
It was in that first real exposure to wine that I learned two things:
I liked Merlot (more at the time than now)
Coffee and wine are a really tough combination but a guy’s gotta do what a guy’s gotta do.
It was many years later that I actually learned to taste wine and the day I learned that ‘all the fancy stuff experts do’ actually isn’t all that fancy, is rather scientific and will forever change how you appreciate wine.
Consider the following:
Up to 90% of our taste comes from smell.
Your tongue has at least four major zones of taste buds; each specializes in a range of tastes.
Many recognize that how food looks on a plate can change how we preceive it’s taste
Pouring a glass of wine into your mouth and swallowing may not be the best way all of your senses to properly capture the tastes contained within the bottle; it actually bypasses most of these items above. Proper tasting accounts and maximizes each of these things; even if it looks a little odd.
You don’t need to be an expert to ‘properly’ taste wine; you simply have to engage the most of your senses that you possibly can.
The essentials of wine tasting comprises of 3 basic steps (some break this down further):
The look (sight)
The smell (smell)
The taste (vision)
I’m heading out-of-town this weekend – each day will feature a post on each step. I assure you if you haven’t done “the fancy stuff” before, you will be stunned on what happens to the flavors of a bottle with a few simple (and even discreet) steps.
If you don’t like wine (and if so, I’m amazed you’re still reading), you may also find that it’s worth an extra effort if you haven’t tried this before. More on that when we talk about taste.
We had an awesome meal last evening – a mashup of ingredients straight from our garden with some great product from our CSA (Community Shared Agriculture program).
Here are some of the things I’ve learned this year:
Like puppies and a new job, it really is more work than I thought.
That work, when in the right mindset, is most pleasurable. The more you do the task, the more you can develop the mindset.
Consistency is key. I twice went without watering for a few days and almost killed the entire crop. These two short faults definately hurt my harvest.
Big plants don’t necessarily mean bit yield. I have two sets of tomato plans – one looks like a rain forest and the other like the Sahara. The ‘desert’ ones have a higher yield than my pristine plant.
Knowing how much water is an art form. I wasn’t using nearly enough early on and cost myself a tonne of veggies.
You can grow awesome plants in the shade – including ones that people claim need a lot of sun to thrive. They just might not grow a lot of fruit.
Picking tomatoes is a two-handed task. When I cheat I usually break a stem.
You can grow a cucumber plant up a wall and attach it to other vines. More sun would have helped.
Never give up. My hot pepper plant all but died before it really started to grow – yet it is in the best shape of all (and in the best spot for sun).
There is nothing like tomatoes off the vine. I had remembered this intellectually but the taste is something that can’t be intellectually processed to be understood.
A few herb plants can be a lot of herbs. I should have grown a greater variety and used them more often in my cooking
Fresh herbs that you’ve grown are also far more flavorful than those purchased.
A reminder: things you grow yourself just taste better.
While I can grow from seed, our apartment lifestyle is not ideal for it. Starting with plants may be cheating – or may be practical.
Our yield has been relatively miniscule. I’ve also learned how to be ok with that and celebrate our successes first.
Ask more questions.
These are some of the lessons of the summer (so far)…
When I grew up I knew Paramsean cheese as a mysterious powder-like substance that came in a towering cylinder and absorbed the most liquid bits of tomato sauce like that stuff you use at the gas station if you are a little overzealous at the pump. That was Parmasean.
Most of North America has been turned on to Parmigiano-Reggiano in recent years with it`s push on mainstream television. It seems to be a staple that I just can`t live without if I`m going to keep cooking with a crazy smile glued to my face (also a requirement, it would appear, from the same shows ).
I have used the `real deal`for many years yet known little about it; including how to spell it. Years of looking at the jar of powder (with label) have corrupted my spelling of the real deal (which label is printed on the rind but you don`t see in totality unless you buy the 1-ton wheel of cheese). And the spelling is, indeed, a great giveaway to it`s origin:
Parmigiano-Reggiano is from one of 5 Italian Provinces:
Parma (yes the same one that produces the ham)
Reggio Emilia
Modena
Bologna
Mantova
To further confuse things (for us on the outside), Italy groups it`s provinces into 20 regions. The first four provinces on the list above are from the region named Emilia-Romagna and the last is from Mantova. Anything produced outside of these four regions cannot be called by this name so is given other names – including Paramasean and Parmesan.
Parmigiano is a term used to describe Parma while Reggiano describes Reggio Emilia. Some purists (mostly from these two provinces) insist they are the only two products that are the `real deal.`
An a related topic, never throw out your rinds… They make great addition to sauce; but that`s a story for another day…
It’s a tomato-heavy month. We’d planned to move on from the topic today but some great questions started rolling across the blog in the last 24 hours asking “What is a half long?”
My answer may, at first, disappoint.
The truth is, I don’t think a half-long exists other than at my local Italian Tomato Supplier. It appears to be a piece of slang that he used to describe the particular type of tomato that we use and the slang may actually be limited to his vocabulary. I can`t find a thing about them under that name anywhere.
There’s likely another name for them but he prefers “half long.” His logic is that most of these plum-tomato varietals are about half-as-long as a regular plum tomato; we’ll share our logic on how to find the best tomatoes for transforming into sauce near you (there are 2 tricks).
The length is not the only difference. Let’s take a step back before running forward and committing to my made-up name for a tomato and why we find it far superior to a ‘normal’ plum tomato (that we used for years) or even the legendary San Marzano tomato (which is the defacto standard of many sauce makers).
Let’s start with a little tomato terminology:
Skin. Yep that’s the outside of the tomato.
Pericarp Wall. The outside circle of flesh that is immediately under the skin.
Septa. The inward columns of flesh similar to the Pericarp wall that joins the outside circle to the core (think “Septum”)
Columella. The center core.
Seeds. I don’t really have to explain this one now, do I?
Placenta. Clear stuff keeping the seeds in place.
We used standard plum tomatoes for years. Whenever we cooked our sauce down, we noticed that there was a layer of clear tomato water that had to be cooked off. This layer could be a quarter to half an inch thick (our pots fit 3 bushels or 156 pounds of tomato) and would take a long time to boil down. Our cooking time easily went from 2.5 hours to 4 or 5 just to boil of this layer of water (which is harmless though makes your sauce appear separated or layered in jars).
We thought we were brilliant a few years back when we skimmed the water off and boiled it down on the stove separately. This sped the entire process up and left us with an amazing profit.
We switched from regular plum tomatoes last year to ‘half-longs.’ Here’s a photo of one from last year (it’s an extreme example of what makes these tomatoes ideal for sauce):
There is relatively little placenta in these tomatoes (most have more than what you see here). Less placenta = less tomato water. Less tomato water = less cooking. Less cooking = higher yield. I also believe it’s a far redder sauce since the majority of the color is from the Septa and Pericarp walls and less placenta = a higher ratio of pure, red pulp.
Changing our tomatoes to one with less placenta has increased our yield from 13-17 jars per bushel to 20 jars per bushel (with the same amount of work). Their smaller size also fits in the grinder better.
I will try to find the proper name to these little gems (you can see last years post about them here) although my second tip may actually be the most useful to you and what is available locally: ask your farmer or quality grocer what to use. We used plum for 15 years before asking and were turned on to these – they had been available the whole time.
THanks to Pryor and Carter for the question – made coming up with an idea for today very easy!
Hope this is a good start – would love to hear what everyone else is using!
It`s nearing 11:00PM on Sunday night. I haven`t eaten since early afternoon and I`m bouncing with excitement for dinner. I`m so looking forward to this meal that when my dinner plans got sidetracked about 3 hours ago that I remained focused in order to protect my appetite.
I have even picked up takeout for others and watched them eat in the last few hours – and stubbornly refused to eat. That`s how excited I am.
We bottled 5 bushels of tomatoes (as sauce) today. My parents had a jump-start and did 3 yesterday. A bushel weighs 53 pounds; with proper care and equipment our yield is typically around 20 liters (80 cups) per bushel. Our total haul this year is an awesome 156 jars.
After a hard day of canning there is nothing better I love than opening a few jars of sauce and eating the plainest spaghetti I will all year. It`s a celebratory meal that marks the harvest and the completion of a lot of hard, satisfying work. It`s also an awesome predecessor to a full year of eating; soups, stews, spaghetti and more meals will depend on todays`results and an early preview of the yearly vintage is an exciting moment.
This single meal becomes a more significant meal for me every year. It connects one year`s harvest to the next and memories of years of sauce and time with family connect through a tradition that grows stronger each time we do it.
Our sauce does taste, look and smell different due to variables in our ingredients and how they are affected by the climate of a particular summer. It also goes through a maturation process as the herbs and garlic in the jar become further infused into the jars as time passes. Our 2010 vintage is a brilliant red, finished with less salt than we used last year and had fresh tomato leaves thrown into the cooking process (in a cheesecloth sack that was removed before canning) for the last 20 minutes of the cook. There`s a wonderful thick pulpy texture to it that we`ve really mastered over the last few years by bringing the sauce to a very patient roll (as opposed to a boil).
We used `half-long`tomatoes for the second year in a row (we used standard plum tomatoes for years) and they proved, once again, to be stunning. We noticed that there was a missing layer of tomato water (from the clear part of the tomato guts that surrounds the seeds) and there was no separation in the cooking process. This equates to a thicker, more flavorful and consistent sauce.
The taste is amazing – and the feeling of satisfaction that comes from the combination of flavor and hard work is unbeatable. Even at 11:00PM on an empty stomache.
It`s been a long time since we`ve shared some excitement about a food book even though we`ve had plenty to be excited about. I`m not much of a reader (still struggle to comprehend much of what I read but that`s another story for another day).
I also struggle to follow a recipe so the novelty of buying books often falls to the land of good intent and the `satisfaction` of filling a pretty shelf of potential ideas.
The Flavor Bible reads like a dictionary. An alphabetical list of ingredients is accompanied by very few photos and fewer entire sentences. What remains is several categories of information for you to launch into your own creativity and desire. Most ingredients list:
Season
Taste
Botanical Relatives
Weight, volume (descriptions not measurements – i.e. heavy, light)
Tips
A list of ingredients to pair it with (strong pairings are indicated in bold and all caps)
flavor affinities (recipes without measurements – highlights combos of other flavors that come together with this ingredient
Many also include recipes (by name – there are not instructions), other tastes to avoid and quotes about the ingredient. I find small anecdotes that are taken from individual chefs and their personal views on the ingredient.
There are very few recipes, instructions or details on how to cook with said ingredient – the book is more of a tool than an instruction manual, if that makes sense. I`m especially excited about using it to try some flavor combinations that I`ve never thought of and seeing where I can take it from there.
The authors won a James Beard award fot this book in 2009; you can read more about them (and a newer book on wine pairings) at their website.
Fantastic book; I just have to remember to keep it off the shelf!