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11 Days of Feastmas – How to make great turkey stock and soup

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This is the end of the 11 days of posts on Feastmas.  It’s been a good run but all good things must meet their end – or be reborn through leftovers.

I have done a lot of reading in recent years on how to perfect stock.  I have been surprised to learn that many of the common practices taught around making stock actually fly in the face of science or the knowledge of professional chefs.  The work of Herve This and Harold McGee (both prominent food scientists) has really inspired me to learn a lot more about making a better stock – something I am still actively learning about.

Here are some of the tips I have learned:

  • It is essential that everything in your pot starts off cold.  This will help release the gelatin and more flavor from the bones which can only be released slowly.
  • Roasting bones or veggies before making a stock makes a massive difference.  Some of my chef friends argue that if it’s not roaster, it’s not getting in the pot (including tomato sauce which they add for flavor).
  • Do not boil the stock.  A gentle simmer only.  A rapid boil will actually emulsify that fat into the liquid making it impossible to remove and create a more “oily” stock.
  • Do not add salt to your stock while it is simmering down.  Salt will draw bitter elements from bones.
  • We start with the turkey carcass, whole onions (skin and all), whole garlic, celery and carrot sticks and simmer slowly for hours on hours.  We then strain the entire mixture and let it cool outside (a pressure cooker keeps any critters locked out).  The cooling process raises the fat to the surface which can then be skimmed off.  If you are in a rush, let the stock settle in the cold for 30 minute or so and dip paper towels in to remove the floating layer of fat.

If you are thinking of preserving stock, freezing is the easiest.  Pressure Canning it is safe to the USDA though Canadian food standards do not recommend it.

Comments

charissa
Reply

Do you roast your whole onions (skin and all), whole garlic, celery and carrot sticks? If so, for how long and at what temp? I have a turkey carcass waiting to be stock-ified ;)

Joel
Reply

Laughing… I roasted the turkey carcass at 450 until brown… I cheated with my garlic and onions and celery this year and put them in as is. If you wanted to roast them you could gently hit them with olive oil and roast in the oven at 450 until caramelized slightly :)

Let us know how it goes :)

J

charissa
Reply

I will!! After reading all your posts, I would feel guilty if I didn’t made use of that carcass!!! I made chicken stock not too long ago, and used it for the gravy I made with roasted chicken thighs. Lemon, rosemary, thyme roasted chicken thighs are a family favourite–people love the crispy skin! The gravy was an even bigger hit, especially since it also had a splash of brandy and was finished with cream.

I bought some ancho, mulatto, and pasilla dried peppers from the St. Lawrence Market, so I think I will make some turkey chili in the not to distant future. I made real Texas chili (along with a couple of homemade soups and homemade mac and cheese) for our extended family xmas party–chili with no beans or tomatoes. It is seriously good and thick enough to scoop with nacho chips.

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